Beauty Squared Lessons: Primers

Do you ever experience your makeup sliding off your face or melting/fading during the day?
Does your eyeshadow end up in your eyelid crease or slide around your eyelid?
Does your foundation and concealer sink into fine lines or pores?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, chances are that you need to add a primer or two to your makeup routine.

What are primers?

Think of primers as shapewear for your face. They make everything you put on top of them look better. Just like shapewear can smooth out bumps, conceal problem areas and make you look better, primers can smooth uneven texture, minimize imperfections and allow makeup products you put on top perform better. 

Primers often contain ingredients that can benefit the skin. There are some that contain acne-fighting ingredients, some that can even skin tone and some that can prevent dryness. 

Many contain silica (silicone dioxide) to prevent shine and waxes and polymers to form a stronger bond between your skin and whatever you're putting on top of it. 

There are primers for your face, primers for your eyes, primers for your lips and primers for your eyelashes. Face primers help your foundation and concealer last longer without fading, smooth out fine lines and pores, create a smooth surface for your foundation, and help to keep shine at bay. Eye primers help your eyeshadow last without fading or moving, help to smooth the skin surface for better application and can make eyeshadows colours and textures to be truer. Lip primers help to smooth the lip surface so lip products apply cleanly and smoothly, help to keep the skin hydrated, allow colours to be truer and last longer. Eyelash primer is designed to make lashes appear fuller and longer when mascara is applied on top, can help mascara last longer without fading or flaking and can strengthen lashes. 

While lip and eyelash primer can be effective, they're not as useful as face and eyeshadow primers, nor as readily available. Do your research into lip and eyelash primers before making the decision to buy. 

Do I need a primer?

Not necessarily but here are some reasons why you may want to consider using one (or more):

• your skin is oily and you find that your makeup fades or melts off your face
• you have fine lines
• you have large pores
• you find that makeup can sink into your fine lines or large pores
• you live in a warm and or humid climate and you find that your makeup fades/melts
• you wear makeup while doing physical activity
• you have oily eyelids and find that your eyeshadow ends up in your crease or fades
• you like to wear dark or colourful eyeshadow and feel like it doesn't look as good on as it does in the pan
• your lipstick tends to fall into creases in your lips
• you find that mascara isn't enough to thicken and lengthen your eyelashes

Some primers will add radiance to your skin, some have luminzing properties, even your skintone, hydrate your skin, fight blemishes and some contain SPF. It can be daunting to know where to begin. The best thing to do is start with the main issues you have and learn what you like and don't like.

How do I use a primer?

Primers act like a glue between your skin and your makeup, so apply it after you've prepped your skin for makeup (cleanser and moisturizer, maybe a serum, toner, etc). Some primers can be applied after you do your makeup, for example, during the day for touch-ups, but this seems a bit odd to me. Hopefully a primer is doing it's job under the makeup so you don't have to apply it again on top.

Typically, a light layer is best with a primer. Too much might make anything you apply on top of it cake. 

Even if you don't wear makeup you can benefit from using a primer. Look for one that smooths fine lines, minimizes discolouration or softens the look of large pores. Apply it after you've cleansed and moisturized your skin and go!

How much should I pay for a primer?


As with most makeup products, primers come in a wide ranger of price points, from drugstore to very high end. Do your research, based on your needs and on your skin type, and you'll probably find a whole range of primers to try. But just because a primer (or any cosmetic) works for someone, it doesn't mean it'll work for you too. Try before you buy as much as possible. 

On the lower end, L'Oreal and Elf have primers in their lines, and Sephora/Shoppers Drug Mart/online brands Smashbox, Urban Decay and Benefit are known for their mid-range primers. Going to the high end, look for primers from Dior, Hourglass and Guerlain. 

Conclusion

A primer can be a pricey addition to your makeup routine but one that may change the way you wear makeup. They can eliminate or at least minimize many, many makeup problems you have and possibly even some you didn't realize you had. 

Do you already use a primer? Share your favourites in the comments below!

C. 

Beauty Squared Beauty Lessons: Serums

A reader has asked us to do a post about serums. It struck me as funny since I've been using serums for years, and doesn't everyone use one? Or at least doesn't everyone know what they are and choose to use them or not, like everything else? Serums are a part of my beauty routine, but clearly, not everyone's. So let's dive in and learn all about serums.

What is a serum?

A serum is a gel or cream containing high concentrations of active ingredients. They come in a variety of different formulas, depending on specific skin problems - fine lines and wrinkles, age spots, acne, large pores, dull skin, etc. Think of them like a vitamin or a superfood for your skin. Unlike moisturizers, which stay mainly on the surface of the skin to moisturize the outer layer, serums are readily absorbed into the skin's epidermis

How do I use a serum?

Choose a serum based on your skin type (oily, dry, sensitive, combination).

Serums are best applied to the skin while it's still a bit damp, to ensure the best absorption. They tend to be a gel-like liquid consistency and absorb easily. Simply smooth into freshly cleaned and dried skin. Depending on the steps in your skin care regime, serums typically should be applied after all cleansing steps (post-cleanser, post-toner) and before moisturizer. 

Each serum will have application instructions included. 

Why should I use a serum?

Serums can be used for a variety of reasons but they're designed to target a specific skin problem - fine lines, large pores, acne, irritation, dullness, etc. Choose one that will target your main beef with your skin.

How much should I pay for a serum?

Serums come in a range, just like moisturizers and cleanser, from drugstore brands to high-end brands to specialty brands to organic brands. Serums tend to be pricier than cleansers and moisturizers but you probably can find one that will suit your budget. Drugstore brands Olay and L'Oreal have serums in their product lines for about $30 and you can go up to $100 for a serum from Kiehl's or B. Kamin. Then there are the $200+ serums from brands like La Mer and Prevage.

If you find a serum too pricey for twice-a-day use, use it just in the morning to boost your skin's radiance, or in your nighttime routine for extra impact.

My skin is sensitive - can I use a serum?

If you have rosacea or eczema, you probably want to stay away from serums. They can be too intense for sensitive skin due to their potency and how easily they're absorbed by the skin. 

Also, be wary if you regularly get chemical peels or any products that make your skin sensitive. A serum could be irritating and worse, react to the products you're using.

Conclusion:

A serum can be an excellent addition to your skin care regime. While you may need to do some hunting to find one that works for your skin, and they can be expensive, they can also make a big difference in your skin. Most skincare brands offer samples so take advantage and test out a few different brands before buying. 

Be cautious if you're prone to skin sensitivity, and use only a serum that suits your skin type.


Do you use a serum? Share your favourites in the comments below!

C.

Beauty Squared Beauty Lessons: Eyeliner

A reader has asked us to do a post about eyeliner. Liquid, pencil, powder, how to apply it, what products to use, etc.

Eyeliner can be subtle or dramatic depending on the look you want. It can be in any colour, it can be contemporary or classic. It can come in the form of a pencil, a pot, a pen or a powder. 

Eyeliner is at the centre of some classic makeup looks:

Marlene Dietrich (1930s)
white eyeliner on the waterline

Marilyn Monroe (1950s)
liquid eyeliner used to create the classic cat eye

Twiggy (1960s)
dramatic eyeliner to create an exaggerated eye

Keira Knightley
black eyeliner on the waterline in the classic smokey eye

Iggy Pop (1970s)
the messy, smudgy rock & roll eye

Eyeliner is used exactly how you think it's used - to line the eye. Lining the eye enhances it, like a frame enhances a photo or a painting. It's one of the easiest ways to add definition to the eye. It can be used on the outside of the eye, along the lashline, or on the inside of the eye, on the waterline. Eyeliner comes in almost every colour and texture you can imagine from the dark and matte to the bright and shimmery.

This post will look at the three main types of eyeliner - pencil, liquid and powder.

Pencil eyeliner is probably the most commonly used type of eyeliner in North America. It's certainly the most readily available. 

Pencil eyeliner comes in a wooden pencil form and is a hardish-powder formula. Pencil eyeliner has wax in it which makes it soften when it comes in contact with the warmth of skin. Pencil eyeshadow comes in an array of colours, but traditionally, it comes in neutral shades like brown, black and white. 

Pencil eyeliner is used widely as soft definition on both the top and bottom lashline, as well as in the waterline. Because of its texture it can be smudged with a brush, a finger or a Q-top quite easily. It's meant to look soft, compared to a liquid liner which has a more precise definition effect.

Black pencil eyeliner is commonly used along the waterline in a smoky eye look although powders and gel/liquid liners can also be used for this purpose. Colours other than black are also used, such as browns, greys, purples, blues, etc. 

Pencil eyeliner tends to be easy to use. Some have harder consistencies than others and it's a good idea to warm them up by applying to the back of the hand before applying to your delicate eye area.

Warm pencils by rubbing them on the back of the hand.

I've also heard that blasting the eyeliner with a hairdryer can also soften it (and won't reduce its sharpness like rubbing on the hand will) but I wonder if this might also melt the product too much if you hold it under too long or soften the product irreparably. 

Tips for using pencil eyeliner:

• a sharper pencil will give you more precision and enable you to get into the lashline. If needed, resharpen your pencil during application.
• using a small stiff brush, you can soften any pencil application for a softly-defined lashline. 
• if a pencil breaks while you sharpen it, try putting it in the freezer so it hardens. 
• gently pulling on the outside of your eye will keep your lid tight so you can get a more precise line.
• applying liner in short strokes will give you more control over how much is applied. 

You can find pencil liners at every price point. Here are some of Beauty Squared's favourites:

• Urban Decay 24/7 - wide variety of colours and textures, from edgy to classic. We're big fans of their metallic colours. Good wear time.
• Make Up Forever AquaEyes - great colour selection and waterproof. These last and last, even on oily skin.
• MAC - always high quality and excellent for basic shades as well as trendier shades.
• L'Oreal - comparable to the Urban Decay pencils but less expensive. 

Here are some swatches of a variety of eye liners. There's far more than simply black or brown to play with!

L-R: MUFE AquaEyes in 10L
Philosophy Colouring Crayon in Creativity
Trucco in Sebastian Ivy
GOSH Crystal'Eyes Eye Pencil in Sparkling Silver
Tarte EmphasEYES Inner Rim Eye Pencil
Tarina Tarantino Eye Dream Highlight Hyperliner in Kanzashi
Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Ransom
GOSH Crystal'Eyes Eye Pencil in Sparkling Green
MAC Pearlglide Intense Eye Liner in Industrial
Clinique Cream Shaper For Eyes in Mink
MAC Pearlglide Intense Eye Liner in Undercurrent

Inner Eye or Waterline:

You may have heard or read this term. The lining of the inner eye (the part of the eyelid inside the lashes) is a trick that can make the eyes look smaller or larger, depending on the colour used, and for a complete smoky eye look, it's necessary.

Here are some examples from past Beauty Squared EOTDs and FOTDs of waterlining.

While waterlining can be difficult for those with sensitive eyes or contact lens wearers, and can make small eyes look smaller, the effect is addictive for those who can wear it. Using black on the waterline makes the eyes stand out dramatically and gives the eyes a sexy, sultry effect.  Using white or a fleshtone on the waterline makes the eyes look bigger, such as in the photo below.

The technique of using kohl powder to line the waterline has been around since the ancient Egyptians and is still used traditionally in the Middle East and India as well as western civilizations today. While black eyeliner pencils mimic this effect fairly well, you can find the more traditional powder kohl in beauty supply stores and with some beauty brands, such as this one from Guerlain. The powder is applied by this pointed applicator, rather than by brush.

Liquid eyeliner is found in pens, typically with an applicator built into the lid, or in pots with which you need to use a separate brush. Liquid eyeliner is one of the more challenging beauty tricks to manage and one that artists get asked about a lot. So many iconic beauty looks utilize liquid eyeliner. 

Liquid eyeliner in pens are common since the brush is built into the packaging, such as those pictured below. Sometimes the liner looks like a felt-tip pen and sometimes it's like a mascara with the brush built into the cap. Typically, if looking at buying one like this, you'll want to have a look at the pen tip, if possible. You want the skinniest tip you can get.

Liquid eyeliner can also be found in pots, such as those pictured below. Typically, liner found in pot form are gel liners, which has a thicker consistency than liquid which is what is typically used in pen liners. You need to use a brush with liner that comes in pot form. Bobbi Brown's Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner and MAC Fluidlines are two of the best of this style of liner. 

Brushes to use with potted eyeliner should be very very finely tipped such as the photo below. The tilt to the end of the brush is ergonomic and makes it easier to apply product precisely. 

Another option is to use an angle brush, which is broad but very finely tipped. It allows for applying product more quickly and is handy for thickening and flicking the ends of the liner. 

If you try both types of brushes, you'll likely find that you prefer one over the other but if you're starting out, you'll want to try the very fine tipped one first and work up to the angle brush when you're feeling more confident. 

Check out these creative liquid eyeliner looks:

http://kristianathe.blogspot.ca/2011/05/best-works-20102011.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZyuAECvtDo

http://mymakeupboxisabomb.blogspot.ca/2010/06/creative-makeup-eyeliner.html

But the most common use of eyeliner is in a very classic cat-eye look such as often seen on Marilyn Monroe and Angelina Jolie. Liquid eyeliner in this style perfectly suits the shape of Angelina's eyes and gives her them an extra seductive quality. This is seen a lot on celebrities and models. 

For a Marilyn Monroe makeup tutorial, click here. 

The classic 60s eye also utilized eyeliner but to make the eyes look bigger and more doll-like. As pictured below, 60s icon Twiggy defines her eyes by applying black liner (with a non-angled fine-tipped brush) to her crease, along her top lashline and using it to paint on her lower lashes. 

For a Twiggy/1960s makeup tutorial, click here. 

The seductive, enigmatic movie star Marlene Dietrich would use a thin line of liquid eyeliner (as was the trend in the 30s) to enhance the hooded quality of her naturally hooded and slightly downturned eyes. She'd draw the liner along her lashline, but rather than pulling it up at the outside, she'd extend it slightly downwards to pull the eye down slightly. Note as well, that she also used a white product on her lower waterline to make her eyes look larger. 

For a Marlene Dietrich makeup tutorial, click here. 

You can find liquid eyeliner from most brands, although typically drugstore brands will carry it as limited edition depending on the trends. Drugstore brands will typically carry only black liquid liner but you may be able to find a variety of colours that will match MAC or Make Up For Ever's selections. Revlon's ColorStay Liquid Liner is a popular choice, as are Physician's Formula 2-in-1 Lash Boosting Eyeliner + Serum and Maybelline Line Stiletto Ultimate Precision Liquid Eyeliner. 

I thought I'd include powder eyeliner in this post because it gives an additional option for lining the eye, that's not technically an "eyeliner". Powder eyeliner is simply using a loose or pressed powder eyeshadow to line your eye. It gives a much softer, smokier effect than both pencil eyeliners and liquid eyeliners. It also comes in pretty much any colour and texture you can think of. 

To line your eyes with an eyeshadow, simply use a fine tipped brush, such as an angle brush, as discussed above and work the shadow into your lashline. Layer it as needed to intensify the effect. Using eyeshadow along your lash line can be a very natural way to enhance your eyes. Choosing a shade that's close to the colour of your lashes and applying it softly will make your eyes look bigger, and your lashes thicker without looking like you're wearing much of anything on your eyes. 

Using a metallic colour will of course, add sparkle to your eye look and using a matter shade will look more natural. Eyeshadow will not last as long as a pencil eyeliner or a liquid eyeliner, so it's best to keep it just along the lashline and not extend it out into a flick as you would with a liquid liner. You can also use water to moisten an eyeshadow and use it like a liquid liner that way. 

And now you know almost everything there is to know about eyeliner! Please, if I've missed anything or if you have any questions, let us know in the comments below.

We hope you've enjoyed this Lesson on eyeliner. Let us know if there's anything else you'd like us to tackle!

C.