Wayne Goss has revolutionized my makeup routine!

I have a new makeup routine, you guys! It's not that I'm using new products, it's just that I've switched my techniques a little and it's made ALL THE DIFFERENCE! It's all due to Wayne Goss' YouTube channel. 

It's because of him that my makeup routine has, and I'm not kidding, totally changed. I've had a revelation! 

I've incorporated two of his techniques every day for the past few weeks, and now I need to share it with you. They're Wayne Goss certified and Cath-tested.

This first technique made me shake my head in disbelief. Apply powder BEFORE your other makeup? Apply liquids and creams over powder??? This goes against what I was taught as a makeup artist and really, common sense. 



But it works! It really does.

My skin is combination - oily in the t-zone and normal on the cheeks - but it's also summertime and it gets bloody humid in this city. My makeup melts off most days, even with a primer and touch-ups. This under-powdering makes a huge difference. It has literally changed my makeup routine. 

I think the key is to use a light layer of powder, because that way, there's not enough powder to affect the application of creams or liquids. I do apply powder to set my makeup, as I normally would, but it's not as much as I usually would. It's just not needed. 

My makeup lasts all day with minimal touch-up and almost no melting! Seriously, this is one of the best tips I've ever heard.

The second technique I've adopted is Wayne's 100% invisible makeup for a flawless, glowing look. This too requires no special products, just an adaption of my makeup routine. 



Basically, I do almost exactly what Wayne does in the video - after I prime my skin and let it settle for a few minutes, I do a layer of powder and then apply my contour powder, cream blush and liquid highlighter. Then I buff some foundation (lately I've been using MAC Pro Longwear concealer as foundation) into my skin. It softens the contour, blush and highlighter just enough to make it look natural. I also use less foundation than I used to since there's already contour, highlighter and blush over much of my face. I don't have to spend a lot of time blending out the blush and contour shades since they'll get buffed with my foundation brush later. 

I love how polished my makeup looks doing it this way. It's as if I've spent much longer than I do on it. Seriously, this is so easy and takes no extra time at all.

If either of these sounds like it might work for you, I highly recommend trying them out. And check out Wayne's YouTube channel. He's got some great tips, reviews and looks. 

If you do try them out, let us know! 

C.

Beauty Squared Lessons: Primers

Do you ever experience your makeup sliding off your face or melting/fading during the day?
Does your eyeshadow end up in your eyelid crease or slide around your eyelid?
Does your foundation and concealer sink into fine lines or pores?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, chances are that you need to add a primer or two to your makeup routine.

What are primers?

Think of primers as shapewear for your face. They make everything you put on top of them look better. Just like shapewear can smooth out bumps, conceal problem areas and make you look better, primers can smooth uneven texture, minimize imperfections and allow makeup products you put on top perform better. 

Primers often contain ingredients that can benefit the skin. There are some that contain acne-fighting ingredients, some that can even skin tone and some that can prevent dryness. 

Many contain silica (silicone dioxide) to prevent shine and waxes and polymers to form a stronger bond between your skin and whatever you're putting on top of it. 

There are primers for your face, primers for your eyes, primers for your lips and primers for your eyelashes. Face primers help your foundation and concealer last longer without fading, smooth out fine lines and pores, create a smooth surface for your foundation, and help to keep shine at bay. Eye primers help your eyeshadow last without fading or moving, help to smooth the skin surface for better application and can make eyeshadows colours and textures to be truer. Lip primers help to smooth the lip surface so lip products apply cleanly and smoothly, help to keep the skin hydrated, allow colours to be truer and last longer. Eyelash primer is designed to make lashes appear fuller and longer when mascara is applied on top, can help mascara last longer without fading or flaking and can strengthen lashes. 

While lip and eyelash primer can be effective, they're not as useful as face and eyeshadow primers, nor as readily available. Do your research into lip and eyelash primers before making the decision to buy. 

Do I need a primer?

Not necessarily but here are some reasons why you may want to consider using one (or more):

• your skin is oily and you find that your makeup fades or melts off your face
• you have fine lines
• you have large pores
• you find that makeup can sink into your fine lines or large pores
• you live in a warm and or humid climate and you find that your makeup fades/melts
• you wear makeup while doing physical activity
• you have oily eyelids and find that your eyeshadow ends up in your crease or fades
• you like to wear dark or colourful eyeshadow and feel like it doesn't look as good on as it does in the pan
• your lipstick tends to fall into creases in your lips
• you find that mascara isn't enough to thicken and lengthen your eyelashes

Some primers will add radiance to your skin, some have luminzing properties, even your skintone, hydrate your skin, fight blemishes and some contain SPF. It can be daunting to know where to begin. The best thing to do is start with the main issues you have and learn what you like and don't like.

How do I use a primer?

Primers act like a glue between your skin and your makeup, so apply it after you've prepped your skin for makeup (cleanser and moisturizer, maybe a serum, toner, etc). Some primers can be applied after you do your makeup, for example, during the day for touch-ups, but this seems a bit odd to me. Hopefully a primer is doing it's job under the makeup so you don't have to apply it again on top.

Typically, a light layer is best with a primer. Too much might make anything you apply on top of it cake. 

Even if you don't wear makeup you can benefit from using a primer. Look for one that smooths fine lines, minimizes discolouration or softens the look of large pores. Apply it after you've cleansed and moisturized your skin and go!

How much should I pay for a primer?


As with most makeup products, primers come in a wide ranger of price points, from drugstore to very high end. Do your research, based on your needs and on your skin type, and you'll probably find a whole range of primers to try. But just because a primer (or any cosmetic) works for someone, it doesn't mean it'll work for you too. Try before you buy as much as possible. 

On the lower end, L'Oreal and Elf have primers in their lines, and Sephora/Shoppers Drug Mart/online brands Smashbox, Urban Decay and Benefit are known for their mid-range primers. Going to the high end, look for primers from Dior, Hourglass and Guerlain. 

Conclusion

A primer can be a pricey addition to your makeup routine but one that may change the way you wear makeup. They can eliminate or at least minimize many, many makeup problems you have and possibly even some you didn't realize you had. 

Do you already use a primer? Share your favourites in the comments below!

C. 

Beauty Squared Round-Up for July 14, 2013

Happy Sunday, lovelies!

• If you're like me, your beauty routine more or less goes out the window when you spend any time in the heat and humidity. But, if, like me, you're not willing to forgo your beauty routine just because the weather is working against you, you may just need to change up how how you get ready and what products you use. Beautylish shares their favourite heat-proof beauty products that'll help keep you looking good all summer!
  
• If you've ever had a short hairstyle you've liked, you've probably had that moment when you've wondered if you should let it grow out or if you should keep it short. Hairstylist Bill Angst offers some tips to Beautyeditor reader Maria about growing out her short hair.
  
• Some "underrated" beauty habits, or really, just beauty tips, courtesy of Glamour readers.
  
• Minimal, matte makeup as seen on Mad Men's Jessica Paré.
  
• If you get the chance, you should check out the Lipstick Queen lipsticks. Here's a feature on the Chinatown Glossy Lip Pencil in Catalina.
  
• Summer in the city can be grand, but it can also take a real toll on your skin. Here are some common issues that arise with heat and city life and how you can protect your skin.
  
• Whatever you do, don't listen to Gwyneth Paltrow's advice on sun exposure, listen to medical professionals.
  
• Is there a discontinued lipstick that you can't forget about? For me it's MAC's Ionic from when I was a student. Check out Three Custom Color, who can recreate a number of long-gone shades from their colour library. Mine isn't there, but maybe yours is?
  
• In Canada or New York? Pick up a copy of Chloe Magazine for a spread featuring MuchMusic VJ Liz Trinnear styled as Debbie Harry by the awesome Lucky Bromhead. You can see one of the shots on Lucky's Instagram here: http://instagram.com/p/bmdNXAtwio/. 

Beauty Squared Beauty Lessons: Eyeliner

A reader has asked us to do a post about eyeliner. Liquid, pencil, powder, how to apply it, what products to use, etc.

Eyeliner can be subtle or dramatic depending on the look you want. It can be in any colour, it can be contemporary or classic. It can come in the form of a pencil, a pot, a pen or a powder. 

Eyeliner is at the centre of some classic makeup looks:

Marlene Dietrich (1930s)
white eyeliner on the waterline

Marilyn Monroe (1950s)
liquid eyeliner used to create the classic cat eye

Twiggy (1960s)
dramatic eyeliner to create an exaggerated eye

Keira Knightley
black eyeliner on the waterline in the classic smokey eye

Iggy Pop (1970s)
the messy, smudgy rock & roll eye

Eyeliner is used exactly how you think it's used - to line the eye. Lining the eye enhances it, like a frame enhances a photo or a painting. It's one of the easiest ways to add definition to the eye. It can be used on the outside of the eye, along the lashline, or on the inside of the eye, on the waterline. Eyeliner comes in almost every colour and texture you can imagine from the dark and matte to the bright and shimmery.

This post will look at the three main types of eyeliner - pencil, liquid and powder.

Pencil eyeliner is probably the most commonly used type of eyeliner in North America. It's certainly the most readily available. 

Pencil eyeliner comes in a wooden pencil form and is a hardish-powder formula. Pencil eyeliner has wax in it which makes it soften when it comes in contact with the warmth of skin. Pencil eyeshadow comes in an array of colours, but traditionally, it comes in neutral shades like brown, black and white. 

Pencil eyeliner is used widely as soft definition on both the top and bottom lashline, as well as in the waterline. Because of its texture it can be smudged with a brush, a finger or a Q-top quite easily. It's meant to look soft, compared to a liquid liner which has a more precise definition effect.

Black pencil eyeliner is commonly used along the waterline in a smoky eye look although powders and gel/liquid liners can also be used for this purpose. Colours other than black are also used, such as browns, greys, purples, blues, etc. 

Pencil eyeliner tends to be easy to use. Some have harder consistencies than others and it's a good idea to warm them up by applying to the back of the hand before applying to your delicate eye area.

Warm pencils by rubbing them on the back of the hand.

I've also heard that blasting the eyeliner with a hairdryer can also soften it (and won't reduce its sharpness like rubbing on the hand will) but I wonder if this might also melt the product too much if you hold it under too long or soften the product irreparably. 

Tips for using pencil eyeliner:

• a sharper pencil will give you more precision and enable you to get into the lashline. If needed, resharpen your pencil during application.
• using a small stiff brush, you can soften any pencil application for a softly-defined lashline. 
• if a pencil breaks while you sharpen it, try putting it in the freezer so it hardens. 
• gently pulling on the outside of your eye will keep your lid tight so you can get a more precise line.
• applying liner in short strokes will give you more control over how much is applied. 

You can find pencil liners at every price point. Here are some of Beauty Squared's favourites:

• Urban Decay 24/7 - wide variety of colours and textures, from edgy to classic. We're big fans of their metallic colours. Good wear time.
• Make Up Forever AquaEyes - great colour selection and waterproof. These last and last, even on oily skin.
• MAC - always high quality and excellent for basic shades as well as trendier shades.
• L'Oreal - comparable to the Urban Decay pencils but less expensive. 

Here are some swatches of a variety of eye liners. There's far more than simply black or brown to play with!

L-R: MUFE AquaEyes in 10L
Philosophy Colouring Crayon in Creativity
Trucco in Sebastian Ivy
GOSH Crystal'Eyes Eye Pencil in Sparkling Silver
Tarte EmphasEYES Inner Rim Eye Pencil
Tarina Tarantino Eye Dream Highlight Hyperliner in Kanzashi
Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Ransom
GOSH Crystal'Eyes Eye Pencil in Sparkling Green
MAC Pearlglide Intense Eye Liner in Industrial
Clinique Cream Shaper For Eyes in Mink
MAC Pearlglide Intense Eye Liner in Undercurrent

Inner Eye or Waterline:

You may have heard or read this term. The lining of the inner eye (the part of the eyelid inside the lashes) is a trick that can make the eyes look smaller or larger, depending on the colour used, and for a complete smoky eye look, it's necessary.

Here are some examples from past Beauty Squared EOTDs and FOTDs of waterlining.

While waterlining can be difficult for those with sensitive eyes or contact lens wearers, and can make small eyes look smaller, the effect is addictive for those who can wear it. Using black on the waterline makes the eyes stand out dramatically and gives the eyes a sexy, sultry effect.  Using white or a fleshtone on the waterline makes the eyes look bigger, such as in the photo below.

The technique of using kohl powder to line the waterline has been around since the ancient Egyptians and is still used traditionally in the Middle East and India as well as western civilizations today. While black eyeliner pencils mimic this effect fairly well, you can find the more traditional powder kohl in beauty supply stores and with some beauty brands, such as this one from Guerlain. The powder is applied by this pointed applicator, rather than by brush.

Liquid eyeliner is found in pens, typically with an applicator built into the lid, or in pots with which you need to use a separate brush. Liquid eyeliner is one of the more challenging beauty tricks to manage and one that artists get asked about a lot. So many iconic beauty looks utilize liquid eyeliner. 

Liquid eyeliner in pens are common since the brush is built into the packaging, such as those pictured below. Sometimes the liner looks like a felt-tip pen and sometimes it's like a mascara with the brush built into the cap. Typically, if looking at buying one like this, you'll want to have a look at the pen tip, if possible. You want the skinniest tip you can get.

Liquid eyeliner can also be found in pots, such as those pictured below. Typically, liner found in pot form are gel liners, which has a thicker consistency than liquid which is what is typically used in pen liners. You need to use a brush with liner that comes in pot form. Bobbi Brown's Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner and MAC Fluidlines are two of the best of this style of liner. 

Brushes to use with potted eyeliner should be very very finely tipped such as the photo below. The tilt to the end of the brush is ergonomic and makes it easier to apply product precisely. 

Another option is to use an angle brush, which is broad but very finely tipped. It allows for applying product more quickly and is handy for thickening and flicking the ends of the liner. 

If you try both types of brushes, you'll likely find that you prefer one over the other but if you're starting out, you'll want to try the very fine tipped one first and work up to the angle brush when you're feeling more confident. 

Check out these creative liquid eyeliner looks:

http://kristianathe.blogspot.ca/2011/05/best-works-20102011.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZyuAECvtDo

http://mymakeupboxisabomb.blogspot.ca/2010/06/creative-makeup-eyeliner.html

But the most common use of eyeliner is in a very classic cat-eye look such as often seen on Marilyn Monroe and Angelina Jolie. Liquid eyeliner in this style perfectly suits the shape of Angelina's eyes and gives her them an extra seductive quality. This is seen a lot on celebrities and models. 

For a Marilyn Monroe makeup tutorial, click here. 

The classic 60s eye also utilized eyeliner but to make the eyes look bigger and more doll-like. As pictured below, 60s icon Twiggy defines her eyes by applying black liner (with a non-angled fine-tipped brush) to her crease, along her top lashline and using it to paint on her lower lashes. 

For a Twiggy/1960s makeup tutorial, click here. 

The seductive, enigmatic movie star Marlene Dietrich would use a thin line of liquid eyeliner (as was the trend in the 30s) to enhance the hooded quality of her naturally hooded and slightly downturned eyes. She'd draw the liner along her lashline, but rather than pulling it up at the outside, she'd extend it slightly downwards to pull the eye down slightly. Note as well, that she also used a white product on her lower waterline to make her eyes look larger. 

For a Marlene Dietrich makeup tutorial, click here. 

You can find liquid eyeliner from most brands, although typically drugstore brands will carry it as limited edition depending on the trends. Drugstore brands will typically carry only black liquid liner but you may be able to find a variety of colours that will match MAC or Make Up For Ever's selections. Revlon's ColorStay Liquid Liner is a popular choice, as are Physician's Formula 2-in-1 Lash Boosting Eyeliner + Serum and Maybelline Line Stiletto Ultimate Precision Liquid Eyeliner. 

I thought I'd include powder eyeliner in this post because it gives an additional option for lining the eye, that's not technically an "eyeliner". Powder eyeliner is simply using a loose or pressed powder eyeshadow to line your eye. It gives a much softer, smokier effect than both pencil eyeliners and liquid eyeliners. It also comes in pretty much any colour and texture you can think of. 

To line your eyes with an eyeshadow, simply use a fine tipped brush, such as an angle brush, as discussed above and work the shadow into your lashline. Layer it as needed to intensify the effect. Using eyeshadow along your lash line can be a very natural way to enhance your eyes. Choosing a shade that's close to the colour of your lashes and applying it softly will make your eyes look bigger, and your lashes thicker without looking like you're wearing much of anything on your eyes. 

Using a metallic colour will of course, add sparkle to your eye look and using a matter shade will look more natural. Eyeshadow will not last as long as a pencil eyeliner or a liquid eyeliner, so it's best to keep it just along the lashline and not extend it out into a flick as you would with a liquid liner. You can also use water to moisten an eyeshadow and use it like a liquid liner that way. 

And now you know almost everything there is to know about eyeliner! Please, if I've missed anything or if you have any questions, let us know in the comments below.

We hope you've enjoyed this Lesson on eyeliner. Let us know if there's anything else you'd like us to tackle!

C.

Beauty Squared Round-Up - December 8, 2012

What was interesting in the realm of beauty links this week? Here's what we found for you. Enjoy!

Beth is your typical American teenager living through a zombie apocalypse on AMC's Walking Dead. Here's her beauty tips, in case you ever need them.

If you've seen photos of Marilyn Monroe, you've probably seen a Ceil Chapman dress. She made some stunning frocks for stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe. Pin Up Girl Style takes a look at this legendary dress engineer. 

Stylish clothes designed for bicycle riding? What took so long? 

One of the things I love most about make-up is the way it can make someone see themselves in a whole new light. Lipstick Angels are an L.A. organization of volunteer make-up artists who help women feel beautiful, special and confident. 

What makes badasses (like the band The Kills, above) so sexy? 

Life after extreme weight loss.

Three easy ways to disguise signs of drowsiness on your face.

Inglot's Double-Sparkle eyeshadows combine matte and shimmer into one eyeshadow!

I LOVE the sparkly strands of hair in the photo of Beyonce, above. Click here for more beauty inspiration ideas.

A collection of make-up artist Luke Goss's best tips in one video!

ID Photos: How To Not Look Like A Thug

Do you hate your ID photos? Many of us do. 

We all have to have photos taken for identification purposes, such as driver's licenses, passports, school IDs, security cards, etc. Most of the time these photos are not flattering and barely look like what you see when you look in the mirror. Somehow these photos seem to make our faces look flat, washed-out and because ID photos need to show you unsmiling and without glasses, you'd perhaps look better photographed when you first woke up in the morning so you look more like yourself!

I have some tips for you to keep in mind the next time you have to have your photo taken for a passport or work ID, you might actually like your photo, or at least not mind it so much. And you won't worry about being arrested at the airport for looking like a criminal in your passport photo.

This is my provincial health card. My photo was taken at the office, standing in front of a blank screen and with a blinding flash with barely a moment to compose myself. It's a mug shot, but it's in colour, rather oddly tinted pink and red. 

It's not a fantastic photo of me, but it's not terrible. I knew I was going to have my photo taken and having learned my lesson from previous ID photos, I made sure to use some makeup tricks to try to make my photo less unflattering.

Make-up tips:

• Wear lipstick, or a tinted lip balm, or just a regular lip balm. It will give your lips some natural colour and sheen. This is ideal in a colour photo, but in a B&W photo it'll have a positive effect too. Just don't wear a dramatic lipstick colour. Try to keep it as natural as possible
• Avoid really shiny lipglosses.  
• Apply blush or bronzer to give your skin some colour. Even if the photos are in B&W, your skin will have some dimension and look a little more luminous.
• Contour: If you're confident about contouring, define your cheekbones and jawline. This will help make your face look more three-dimensional under a bright flash.
• Define your eyes. A thin line of a dark colour along your upper lashline will make your lashes look fuller and also, help your eyes to stand out against a bright flash. If you use a colour that enhances your eye colour, this can help your eyes stand out in colour photos. 
• Blue eyes - burgundy.
• Green eyes - dark orange-brown. 
• Brown eyes - dark purple.
• Hazel eyes - golden-brown.
• Grey eyes - dark green.
• Define your eyebrows. This falls into the contouring category. Well-shaped and groomed brows give your face a great deal of definition and shouldn't be neglected. At the very least, use a brow comb to brush the brow hairs up and towards the outside of your face. If the hairs are long, comb through with a brow gel to keep them in place. 

There are also some non-makeup tips for taking better ID photos (men can use these too!):

• Posture. Even if the photo is head and shoulders only, standing up straight will make you look better in the photo. Pull your shoulders down and back and lift your chin slightly. Imagine an ice cube melting down your spine.
• If possible, wear a flattering neckline and simple jewellery. Take off any outerwear like jackets or scarves. Simple is better, not to mention that wearing a winter coat inside while waiting in line can make you sweaty.
• Smize! What's this? It's smiling with your eyes. Try it in the mirror. Smile without using your mouth. Try to capture an expression using your eyes only. Look in the mirror and smile like you normally would. Then relax your mouth but not the rest of the face. It's a lifting feeling in the outer eye area. Practice. You might not be trying to sell anything when you have your ID photo taken but you will look better in your photo if you don't have a dead stare. 
• Wearing a shirt in a colour that flatters your complexion will give you a natural glow. This won't translate in a B&W photo, unfortunately. 
• Think happy thoughts and allow them to lift your face into a non-glowery expression.
• Relax, as much as possible. Doing so will soften your features. If you don't have much time, try to take a deep, deep breath before they take your photo.
• Close your eyes just before they take your photo. This will relax your eyes and center you.
• Don't clench your jaw.
• Lift your eyebrows slightly. 
• Tuck your chin down, slightly. 

Practice these tips in the mirror until you master them and you'll like your next ID photo. I promise.

C.

Beauty Squared Round-Up

 In this week's Beauty Squared Round-Up:

Five gorgeous holiday looks from Sam and Nic of Pixiwoo.

There's a shortcut that you're most likely taking in your skincare routine. Want to find out what it is and why you need to start taking the long way? Click here.

Drugstore brand foundations rarely have testers. Here are some tips for choosing the right shade without testing first.

TLC's What Not To Wear's Carmindy shares her perfect eyeliner tips and tricks.

Check out this gorgeous modern cat eye on Kristen Stewart.

How to keep looking and feeling fresh during an abnormal situation. Inspired by New York City's recent black out. 

This Caviar & Oyster palette from Bobbi Brown's Holiday 2012 collection is GORGEOUS. 

A genius trick for making an eyeshadow mistake look great! And for giving your eyes a lift too.